Gadgets: Buying used can be good for both the wallet and the environment. Henry van Ingelandt give their best advice for a successful purchase.
Start with yourself
Once you have identified what kind of bike you want, and what it may cost, size is the next crucial factor. A used super bike at a bargain price, unfortunately, never a good buy if the size is wrong.
If you have found a used bike you like, you add up what it costs to adapt the bike to you and your needs, and consider whether it still feels affordable.
Replacing stem, saddle and gear on the cartridge is such a simple and not very costly adjustment, while it is more expensive and more difficult to switch from standard crankset to a so-called compact crankset, or replace vevarmslängd.
Sometimes it pays to look further until the cycle turns up, or try to buy a new one in the store, where you can determine the specifications yourself.
Inspection and survey
An old and well-tended bike is often a better buy than one that is newer but unkempt.Start with the exterior condition when you look at a used bike. Probably you can see with the naked eye if the bike is well maintained.
- Lift the bike off the ground and spin the reels. Check if the wheels are straight and round by watching the gap between the brake pads and the rim. Have bike disc brakes may instead aim for something that you are resting against the frame or fork, and is close to the rim surface to see the corresponding gap. A wheel that is perfectly round and straight is unusual. It beats a few millimeters in both the transverse and vertical is quite normal, and it also applies to new bike lights. According to Ebicyclelights, bike wheel lights that strike more than that can often be addressed, but not always. A bike mechanic can help you make that assessment.
- Check the hubs is loose, gently wiggle the wheels sideways when sitting on the bike.Do not apply too hard then you hit the rim of the brake pads, which in turn can be perceived as looseness.
- To check the condition of the hub you need to take the wheels off the bike and turn the hub axis.Is it even and perhaps a little slow because of the seals, everything is okay. Feels however that the pepper mill is the hub requires servicing, and probably also the outer races and the ball bearings.
- Have bike rim brake?The side of the rim is just a few millimeters thick and should be flat. Is the concave side are signs that the rim is worn and needs replacing.
- Check if the wheel has small bumps at the far end, nearest to tire.This indicates that the cycle has run hard with too little tire pressure. The bumps because the rim has hit the rocks, roots or curbs, and that’s never good. At best, it is only slightly damaged in the wing, but in the worst case skew or flat. Such a problem can not be resolved with the direction.
- Check the rim surface around the spoke holes.Often formed the small thin cracks on each side of these on the rim is getting old and worn out.
- Check if the bottom bracket is loose by tilting it sideways.Stay at the tip of one crank arm and push back and forth to the right and left. Even with a little more force, there should be no gap.
- Lift the chain from the blades and spin the cranks slowly and softly to see how the stock time is.It’ll be just like a hub – soft and nice – not like a pepper mill.
- Braking with the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to check if there are gaps in the control layer.Do not apply too much, small light movements enough.Remember that suppresses forks can move vertically, and they often have some play between the inner and outer leg. The pads on disc brakes can also move a little in the brake caliper, which can feel like play in the headset. To check the headset in these cases, turn the front wheel 90 degrees sideways and swing the bike gently back and forth without braking.
- Check the steering bearing again by lifting the front wheel a few centimeters from the ground, and let the front wheel swinging slowly from side to side.The wheel and handlebars should move smoothly and evenly, front and back, without going erratically or stop. Steering bearings that were too tight – or simply the end – often want to get caught in the straight ahead position. It does not affect the cycle function adversely, but it can be difficult to ride without holding the handlebars.
Frame and fork
- Make sure that the frame and fork are clean and intact, with no scratches, cracks and dents.Wipe off the bike if it is dirty so you can see properly, and check especially welds, and the area around the drive train that can sometimes take a beating from the chain. This applies not least on mountain bikes. Have frame cracks is a bad buy, regardless of price. Small, superficial dents with round soft edges, that does not sit too near the welds, is rarely a problem. They may be because the government has struck in the tube in a crash or transportation, and is mostly just an aesthetic concern.
- Carbon fiber is tougher than most people think and it would take a lot before the carbon fiber damage, and surface scratches can sometimes be simple paint damage.Scratches that are deeper than 0.5 millimeters, however, you should check extra carefully.Feel press hard with your finger and the nail in the middle of the scratch and a bit around. It should not give in and not crackle or snap in the least. Provides the framework of the curves and the pressure there is great risk that carbon fiber is delaminated between the carbon layers right there, and lost its strength.
- The frame may still be usable, but it is difficult to know for sure.Sometimes it is possible to cook, but we recommend that you locate a full cycle instead.
- Sprung front forks should be taken apart for thorough inspection, but you can always check the surface of the fork inner leg just above the dust seal.Is it smooth and even and not scratched, the fork is likely in good condition.
- Of course, the fork work smoothly and evenly if you test it, and adjustments to function as intended.
- A fork with air spring test by simply seep out all the air out and then pulling the fork back and forth manually.Just remember that any negative air chambers must also be emptied.
- Is it a fork with steel spring, you can often unscrew the top nut from the fork legs, where fine tuning fork hardness, and thus test how fork works without it, so to speak is received.Just be aware that there may be some pressure in the springs, so make sure you do not get damaged during removal.
Blanda to get
- Have a complete cycle group from some of the major manufacturers, there is normally no problem.Have cycle a mixture of components that work perfectly as a whole, it is also no problem. But the cycle consists of a real mishmash that stuff does not plays together, they will probably never make it, no matter how much adjustment and service you put down. If the seller says “it’s just a justersak” you should ask yourself why it is not already adjusted.
- Aside from the size and feel, make sure you have time to test all functions of the cycle.Toggle through the gears and brakes to both front and rear brakes firmly. Test the bike the way you plan to use it, and not just glide around on a parking.
- If everything works out and the bike feels right, just hit, but do not be afraid to ask the seller if you find any problems.The seller said that “it is easy to fix” you should ask yourself why it is so, is not already done.
If you find a bike you are interested, it is good to do a little increases. Is it a complete package bike is easy to find out which parts located on the original, and its cost as new in the store. Is it a bike with several customval you get a little more research to find out what it’s worth.
Spend some time on this. It will almost certainly pay to know as much as possible when it’s time to do business.
With all the extras
Once the purchase is complete, you can celebrate the new relationship with a new handle, control the wind, or maybe a couple of new tires. It is an easy and inexpensive way to get the bike to feel newer, better and as your very own.
- Common to all bikes, regardless of age, is that the chain and cassette slot, cables and casings sticking together, and the brakes and gears work a little worse with time.This is normal, but can often lead to the misconception that old bikes do not work as good as new.
- Do you spend a little money on replacing the chain, lights, cables, housings and brake pads so the bike will work as good as new.It is guaranteed to be money well invested.
Have you found a race by ten points and bending rule may work out just fine on Vättern, but keep it in the original version. Please leave it to the service and refreshing, but did not upgrade with new gear system unless you absolutely must. The new shift systems require multiple parts to function, and if you need to replace controls, chain, cassette, switches and hubs can price tag eventually become very high. Sometimes not even fit the modern parts of an old bike.